Visa
Our visa was issued by the consulate in Berlin, Germany. They issued the visa type XC, i.e. private visa. We contacted the consulate why we had got a private visa instead of a regular tourist visa. Their explanation was that visa type T, i.e. tourist visa, is only issued if you have got an appropriate invitation from a person in Tajikistan or travel using a travel agency. As a consequence we had to register with OVIR. We were checked for the OVIR once in the Pamirs and at the Tajik-Uzbek border in Pendjikent.
GBAO Permit
Our GBAO permit issued by the Tajik consulate in Berlin did not list Rushtkalla as a region. We had problems at the police checkpoint in Rushtkalla.
Money
There were enough ATMs in Dushanbe (USD and Tajik Somonis). We also found two ATMs in Khorog (both close to the museum).
In Pendjikent we changed our remaining Tajik Somonis against Uzbek Sums on the bazaar.
Uzbekistan
Visa
We got our Uzbek tourist visa in Dushanbe, Tajikistan. No English was spoken.
Simple process: we filled in and printed out the English online form. Application required a passport photo, a copy of your passport and your Tajik visa. We kept our passport during the visa processing time. As German passport holders we did not need a letter of invitation.
- Visa regulations: http://mfa.uz/eng/consular_issues/
- Visa online application form (English): http://evisa.mfa.uz/Registration.aspx
Note: we met a person who tried to apply for a visa in Dushanbe the same week. She spoke Russian. Her application was refused. The reason was that the consulate would no longer issue tourist visa.
Hotel registration slips
We were told by the hostel staff in Tashkent that, as cyclists, some missing registration slips would not be a problem. The Bed and Breakfast in Tashkent did not want to stand in for our days when we had camped between Samarkand and Tashkent.
- Uzbek-Kazakh border crossing close to Tashkent: we were not checked, neither were some fellows
- Uzbek-Tajik border crossing close to Khojand: some fellows were checked
All three hotels where we stayed preferred payment in USD over local currency.
Bike Storage
For our side trip by train we left our bicycles at Badohir Bed and Breakfast in Samarkand. No extra charge. The bicycles were locked in the courtyard where travellers relax and eat. Our confidence in the staff and place was high.
China
Visa
The best place to get your Chinese visa in Central Asia is probably Tashkent. A 3-month visa with collection on the same day cost 80 USD at that time. No letter of invitation was needed for German passport holders. As some fellows told us, same case for Australians. One passport photo was required.
Money
Nothing to worry about. All "Bank of China" have ATMs supporting international cards.
Train
Taking the train is possible and in such a big country often essential. However, your bicycle needs to be transported separately because you can't take it into the cabins. Prior to departure (can be days or only hours) go to the China Railway Service and say good-bye to your bicycle. You'll get it back.
Accommodation
Finding a hotel in China is one of the easiest things. Even a small village can have surprisingly many hotels.
Laos
Visa
We got our on-arrival visa at the international Chinese-Lao border crossing in Mohan and Boten, respectively. 30-day visa costs 270 Yuan at that time. One passport photo was required.
Money
On the Chinese side in Mohan money changers approach you automatically. On the Lao side in Boten we planned to change money at the Lao Development Bank in Boten that was however closed. The little shop next door did the job instead.
BCEL, banque pour le commerce exterieur Lao, ATMs had a withdrawal limit of 1000000 Kip + 20000 Kip processing fee at that time.
Border to Cambodia
A bribe of 2 USD to get stamped-out was due.
Cambodia
Visa
We got our on-arrival visa at the international Lao-Cambodia border crossing in Don Krolor. 30-day visa costs 20 USD + 2 USD "form fee" at that time. One passport photo was required. We had to pay another 1 USD for a piece of paper called "Health Declaration" and again another 1 USD to get stamped-in.
Money
Prices are in USD and even locals pay in USD in supermarkets etc. You get your change back in USD and Riel.
Bus
Probably the "best" bus operator to travel with your bicycle is Paramount Angkor Express. The reason is that Paramount Angkor Express has 2-storey buses with the lower storey reserved for luggage. Space is so big that they also carry scooters. No disassembling required. We consider it only the "best" operator because they piled up things on our bicycles en route that left big scratches on the them. You'd better check regularly and things should be fine.
